Classic Climbs At Devil's Lake Wisconsin

People new to the Devil's Lake climbing often don't know where to start or where to climb. The quick answer is the East Bluff atop the CCC trail. There are hundreds to thousands of other great climbs at the lake but none as concentrated as at the CCC.

It is important to first get The Climbing Guide to Devil's Lake for ratings. Realize that many of the ratings are "sandbagged". This means that the ratings at Devil's Lake are essentially harder than their traditional rating. An example is a classic climb called Kama-Kazi. This climb is rated 5.8. I might venture to say that this is the hardest 5.8 on Earth. A more appropriate rating would be a 5.9+ to 5.10. I usually assume that any rating in the book is about 0.1 rating higher than what it is in the book. I have found that the higher climb ratings (5.10 and up) are closer to the appropriate (or gym) rating.

Most of the "classic climbs" at the lake are on the harder side (5.8-5.11). The climbs are harder because most of them are on large vertical cracks. These cracks are made more difficult by the type of rock...purple/red quartzite. The most valid description of this rock is "SLICK". Slippery hand jams are extremely difficult with out very good technique. Many people hate climbing on slippery rock and prefer the grip of sandstone. I would disagree with this. The technique training you get from this rock will undoubtedly prepare you for any rock.

There are several "classic climbs" on the East Bluff/CCC trail. These are the climbs you must at least attempt on one of your trips to Devil's Lake. These climbs are climbs that local climbers strive to complete because they are so consistent, crux-filled, and require you to figure out that one exact sequence. Some of the notable climbs are (in no particular order): Sometimes Crack, Upper/Lower Diagonal Crack, Congratulations Crack, Gill's Crack, Mouse Tracks, Kama-Kazi, Cheetah, Peter's Project, Coatamundi Crack, Double Overhang, Orgasm, Beginner's Demise, Prime Rib and many more.

If you're going for a day trip, the East Bluff/CCC trail is the place to be. Watch out on popular weekends as you may have some competition for climbs. The good thing is that you will always be able to get on a good climb due to the sheer concentration of climbs in this area. I don't want anyone to think that this is the only good place to climb at the lake because that is not the case. Be aware that the rest of the East Bluff is extremely long and filled with more climbs than you could possibly imagine. If you are in search of a more serene climbing experience the West Bluff has huge untapped potential but requires some bushwhacking.

Have a fun, safe climb!!

Adam