Classic Climbs At Devil's Lake Wisconsin

People new to the Devil's Lake climbing often don't know where to start or where to climb. The quick answer is the East Bluff atop the CCC trail. There are hundreds to thousands of other great climbs at the lake but none as concentrated as at the CCC.

It is important to first get The Climbing Guide to Devil's Lake for ratings. Realize that many of the ratings are "sandbagged". This means that the ratings at Devil's Lake are essentially harder than their traditional rating. An example is a classic climb called Kama-Kazi. This climb is rated 5.8. I might venture to say that this is the hardest 5.8 on Earth. A more appropriate rating would be a 5.9+ to 5.10. I usually assume that any rating in the book is about 0.1 rating higher than what it is in the book. I have found that the higher climb ratings (5.10 and up) are closer to the appropriate (or gym) rating.

Most of the "classic climbs" at the lake are on the harder side (5.8-5.11). The climbs are harder because most of them are on large vertical cracks. These cracks are made more difficult by the type of rock...purple/red quartzite. The most valid description of this rock is "SLICK". Slippery hand jams are extremely difficult with out very good technique. Many people hate climbing on slippery rock and prefer the grip of sandstone. I would disagree with this. The technique training you get from this rock will undoubtedly prepare you for any rock.

There are several "classic climbs" on the East Bluff/CCC trail. These are the climbs you must at least attempt on one of your trips to Devil's Lake. These climbs are climbs that local climbers strive to complete because they are so consistent, crux-filled, and require you to figure out that one exact sequence. Some of the notable climbs are (in no particular order): Sometimes Crack, Upper/Lower Diagonal Crack, Congratulations Crack, Gill's Crack, Mouse Tracks, Kama-Kazi, Cheetah, Peter's Project, Coatamundi Crack, Double Overhang, Orgasm, Beginner's Demise, Prime Rib and many more.

If you're going for a day trip, the East Bluff/CCC trail is the place to be. Watch out on popular weekends as you may have some competition for climbs. The good thing is that you will always be able to get on a good climb due to the sheer concentration of climbs in this area. I don't want anyone to think that this is the only good place to climb at the lake because that is not the case. Be aware that the rest of the East Bluff is extremely long and filled with more climbs than you could possibly imagine. If you are in search of a more serene climbing experience the West Bluff has huge untapped potential but requires some bushwhacking.

Have a fun, safe climb!!

Adam

West Bluff of Devils Lake--Underdeveloped?

We all know that the best climbing at the lake is up the CCC trail to the long line of classic climbs. We also reserve that area for serious climbers (on the weekends) for good reason. Beautiful, hard, clean climbs as far as the eye can see. Many guiding services, Apex Adventure Alliance included, will take groups out on the West Bluff or off the railroad during the weekend. Being a guide for Apex Adventure Alliance, I am often out on the West Bluff. I am absolutely amazed at how much climbing is left wide open and unused. You may have to bushwhack a bit to get to some of these climbs but that's only because they are never accessed. You may have been to Misery or Cleo's Tower, but have you ever walked a bit north of there?With tall towering walls, and even a six pitch climb (questionable, but there), the West Bluff is the future of climbing at Devil's lake. I personally have climbed many climbs that are comparable or better than the "classic climbs'' on the CCC, some not even NAMED!!! With a little hacking and some determination you will find quiet, secluded, hard climbs on the West Bluff. I know many people explore here but to those of you looking to leave the crowded East Bluff--Don't be afraid to set your rope on the underdeveloped and remarkable West Bluff.

Climbing in General - Just a start

Climbing Is...

Climbing is a little bit of life tucked into a primal sport. We all climb from birth, whether it is up the crib as a baby, up a parents leg as a toddler, up a tree as a child, and, like me, up a cliff as an adult.

Climbing is exercise. Climbing is a core, upper body, lower body, and a cardio exercise.

Climbing is sore. Every muscle, all at once. New muscles that didn't really exist until your first climb.

Climbing is friendship. Climbing is a team sport. A partner you quite literally trust with your life.

Climbing is community. A quite local and small group of people with at least some common interest as you. In my opinion, the most honest and welcoming group.

Climbing is learning, teaching, winning and failing. It is falling, topping out, swearing, hitting the top, hitting the wall, giving beta(climbing info), getting beta, getting bad beta, passing the crux (hardest part of the climb), but mostly getting used to all the good and bad.

Climbing is training. The gym in the winter, the rocks in the spring, summer, and fall.

Climbing is easy. Climbing is for all skill levels, from 5 yo to 80 yo there is a route for you.

Climbing is hard. As hard as you can remotely imagine. There will always be something too hard to climb....always!

Climbing is surpassing fear. It is all about going about an inch past your comfort zone, then expanding your comfort zone further.

Climbing is falling. It's gonna happen, hopefully safely. If it's done right it may be one of the best parts. Just scary enough that you don't want to do it again.

Climbing is holding on no matter what. Even when your brain says you can't hold any more, not letting go.

Climbing is slipping. Even when you got it, guess what.... you don't.

Climbing is hanging out. You can only climb so much. The rest of the time is friends, new people, jokes, finding that perfect rock or tree chair, and granola lunch.

Climbing is being amazed that you just did that. Usually heavy breathing paired with the words "I can't believe I just did that".

Climbing is focus. The world quite literally ceases to exist on a good climb. Life around you freezes in the complete focus of climbing.

Please let me know what else to add....

The list keeps growing.....